Received: from hplms26.hpl.hp.com by opus.hpl.hp.com with ESMTP (1.37.109.18/15.5+ECS 3.3+HPL1.1) id AA175294716; Tue, 20 May 1997 20:18:36 -0700 Return-Path: <Francois_Jouaux@next.com-DeleteThis> Received: from next.com by hplms26.hpl.hp.com with SMTP (1.37.109.16/15.5+ECS 3.3+HPL1.1S) id AA155534716; Tue, 20 May 1997 20:18:36 -0700 Received: from jalama by oz.next.com (NX5.67f1/NeXT0.1-Aleph-bf) id AA21431; Tue, 20 May 97 20:14:33 -0700 Message-Id: <9705210314.AA21431@oz.next.com-DeleteThis> Received: by jalama.next.com (NX5.67g/NX3.0X) id AA20952; Tue, 20 May 97 20:14:27 -0700 Content-Type: text/plain Received: by NeXT.Mailer (1.146) From: Francois Jouaux <Francois_Jouaux@next.com-DeleteThis> Date: Tue, 20 May 97 20:14:21 -0700 To: wind_talk@opus.hpl.hp.com-DeleteThis Subject: Re: Board damaged! References: <199705210151.SAA21868@scv2.apple.com-DeleteThis>
>Thanks for your help. My board is a Bic Vivace. Anything particular I have
>to
>do?
I have a track record for damaging and repairing my boards... You'd be
amazed at what can be repaired.
No, ASD will not want to help you. They'll say that any repair they would do
would not stick to the plastic of your board, but still go ask them. By the
way, ASD's trash container is a good place to start : you'll find all sorts
of tissues and foam pieces to repair broken boards. I even found there a
broken-in-two ASD board that is now my bump and jump board...
Basically you are left with an unrepairable board and you have two options :
- throw it away and buy a new one,
- repair it yourself.
You have nothing to loose by trying the second. At worse you'll learn how to
mix epoxies and will be able to sail a few more time with the board. At best
your fix will last a long time.
I have found that the "ding it" product sticks well to Bic boards, if the
area is not too extensive.
Typically, if the area broken is small, a patching mix like "ding it" or the
other one mentioned earlier "PoxyMarine" will do the job. If the area is
large and there is plastic missing or many cracks and delamination, you will
need to lay fiberglass tissue coated with epoxy resin. Depending on the
delamination you may choose to remove the plastic before covering with
fiberglass. If the area is extensive and close to the nose tip you may wrap
the fiberglass tissue all around it.
Once your production board has been badly broken, you should not care about
the look of it, its value is gone. The only important thing is that you
perfectly seal the area, and keep it strong enough. Luckily for you, the
front of the board is an area that receives a lot of hits, gets broken, but
It is not structuraly critical. A broken nose will not prevent you to ride
the board unlike the bottom, a broken mast base or fin base or a broken rail
under the pads. If things get worse and you can't patch it, you can always
cut the nose shorter as a last resort : your board will be lighter.
I got in your situation when I broke my new Tiga 254 at Waddell last year.
I managed to get a special Tiga repair kit from the Tiga importer in the US.
The same should be available from BIC.
As there was not enough, I used a mixture of the resin they provided with
some usual epoxy resin.
In the manual they were advising to use a blow torch to melt the plastic
around the crack but I found it a little too "radical". I first filled the
hole with styrofoam, then patched it with some PVC from Tap Plastics, then
put several layers of fiberglass and resin on top. The board does not seem to
have taken much weight (less than a pound), and the repair is holding fine
(10+ sessions since that, many jumps, fingers crossed).
-Francois
PS: If you decide to throw away the board, just give it to me.
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