Adrenaline on the coast

From: TWavo@aol.com-DeleteThis
Date: Sun Sep 28 1997 - 11:17:39 PDT


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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 14:17:39 -0400 (EDT)
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To: wind_talk@opus.hpl.hp.com-DeleteThis
Subject: Adrenaline on the coast

Friday was the end of a stressed out week and called for some relief.
On the way down the coast the N.W. swells were rolling in as far as the eye
could see.
Waves were breaking out on bars that you only see when its BIG.

Davenport was breaking bigtime on the North and South reefs with periodic
bone-
crunching shorebreak. Inside was very light. Some of the SC regs were out
ripping it up.
I contemplated for a few minutes, but decided the inside looked too sketchy
for me. Passing Scotts which looked really good, but again light on the
inside I went
to Waddell. The wind was a little cleaner there and the waves were looking
pretty
good.

Timing was crucial getting out, but the sets were spaced apart enough to
avoid the
guillotine. Luck is a big part of this event. // 5.3 on my custom ASD light
wind 8'8 was just right. Some of the waves were crunchy closeouts, but there
were wuite a few that offered
some sweet down the line action. My wave of the day was mast high with five
bottom
turns.

In hindsight Scotts was the call, but I had plenty of fun and adrenaline at
Waddell
to accomplish the task of washing away my stress. Surf-Cleansing.

The trip home was one of those magic moments when the coast turns a certain
pink- gold
color that only Renoir and Turner in my opinion have been able to capture.
 The rapture
of that intense moment is almost too much for me to stay on the road.
The cliffs at Tunitas creek are alive with color. I felt like if I pull back
on the wheel my van will lift and zoom off into the ether chasing the golden
fleece held up by the intensity of light. I keep it together. I keep
driving, but Wow what a way to end the day.

I love this sport for all of its action and the fact that it gets me to
experience these moments.
Besides, the ocean is my therapist and its a lot cheaper than a shrink.

Tony D.



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