Re: Tubamancha kit

From: Daryl Huff (Daryl.Huff@Eng.Sun.COM-DeleteThis)
Date: Fri Jun 17 1994 - 11:21:49 PDT


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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 1994 11:21:49 -0700
From: Daryl.Huff@Eng.Sun.COM-DeleteThis (Daryl Huff)
Message-Id: <9406171821.AA09407@hangtime.Eng.Sun.COM-DeleteThis>
To: wind_talk@opus.hpl.hp.com-DeleteThis
Subject: Re: Tubamancha kit
Cc: zittin@hangtime.Eng.Sun.COM-DeleteThis
X-Sun-Charset: US-ASCII


(I'm posting this for a friend.)

Some comments as a private citizen, a GC Aux member and having worked with
the GC in SAR cases.

- Dave

> ----- Begin Included Message -----
>
> From listserv@jr.hpl.hp.com-DeleteThis Fri Jun 17 08:30 PDT 1994
> Originator: wind_talk@opus.hpl.hp.com-DeleteThis
> To: Multiple recipients of list <wind_talk@opus.hpl.hp.com-DeleteThis>
> Subject: Tubamancha kit
> X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas
> X-Comment: Windsurfing Discussion Mailing List
>
> The following is an outline for a future topic in my Windfinder column in
> Windtracks Magazine on emergencies:
>
> I wavesail frequently at Tubamancha. To get to Tuba you have to launch at
> Limantour Spit in offshore winds then sail 2 miles up wind to get to the sand
> bars at the mouth of Drake's Estero where the surf forms on a series of sand
> bars about 1/4 mile outside. You have to make a series of tacks to get to
> the sailing area and you are frequently a mile or more from shore with the
> winds blowing out to sea. The water is cold and sharky. Since Tuba is in a
> wilderness area there are few people and fewer boats. On a crowded day there
> might be 2 other windsurfers. For all of these reasons I have given a lot of
> thought to emergency kits. Here is what I recommend:

Most of the below described equip is worthless at places like Tuba
because it will never be seen. I am not saying you should not have
this stuff, but signalling from water level and expecting to
be seen in a remote area is dicey. More below.

>
> 1. a mesh waist bag with nylon zipper and velcro closure. It must have a
> quick release buckle so you can easily bring it up onto your board.
>
> 2. It is essential that the bag contain a 8' length of floating polyprophlene
> line with a shackle at each end. This is to attach you to the back footstrap
> of your board while you are sorting out items in your kit or preparing for a
> self rescue. Without it you have to constantly hold on to your board and work
> with only one hand. And if all else fails and its is going to be an
> all-nighter this line will keep you with your board.
>
> 3. High intensity whistle (available from West Marine). It is better than
> waving your arms to get the attention of passing sailors or boats. Attach to
> wetsuit zipper with lanyard.

Might be useful to signal with SOS or something other than a constant
blast to get attention, esp in fog.

>
> 4. Stainless steel mirror (avaialble at surplus stores). This is the single
> best way to attract help from shore during the daytime.

One needs instructions on how to properly use these mirrors. It's
easy once shown, but there is a technique.

>
> 5. Strobe light (best available from West Marine). These can be seen for many
> miles at night.

I would add a small waterproof floatable flashlight - the kind with
2 AA batteries. These are high intensity and are very good for
directional signalling of both boats, people on land and helos.

>
> 6. 30' of towing line (do not use dacron downhaul line...Nylon is better for
> towing)

This is true, but it is likely overkill for towing a board.
First of all, most boats can put the board aboard. If they have to
tow, there's very little friction - the sail has to
come out in any event. Polypro would be a better choice
because it's a whole lot lighter than nylon, it floats (nylon sinks)
and therefore is more accessible if needed by the PIW and tends
to stay out of props. For heavy, hi inertia objects like a deep
draft boat, nylon is unquestionably the better choice, for not
so for boards. I question even having a tow line because the
boat owner will either put the board aboard or have his own line,
but I am open to reasoning.

>
> 7. Shock cord loops with balls for quickly securing rolled sail (available
> from West Marine)
>
> 8. Stainless steel Marlin spike knife. These are designed to be opened with
> gloves and wet hands. The spike is perfect to un-do knots and jamed
> downhauls. (best available from West Marine)

Might be overkill. These are heavy and require warm hands to use.
A simple knife, with no point, easy to open even with numb hands or
hands in a neopreme glove for cutting would be more useful.
>
> 9. A bright orange piece of plastic sheet or nylon to wave down boats.

Ok, but keep in mind you are low in the water. Without hoisting
the sheet, it's not going to be seen for very far.
Visual range (in nm) under clear atmospheric conditions is:
        1.17*sqrt(ht obs1 in ft above water) + 1.17*sqrt(ditto for obs2)
So assuming a person in a boat is 9' above water and the PIW is zero,
then the sight range is:
        3.5nm + 0 = 3.5nm
the boat has to be awfully close even assuming perfect atomos. conditions.

>
> 10. For ocean sailing a wetsuit hood is essential and can be jammed into the
> kit. If you have a bigger kit gloves are recommended.

Absolutely - the head is a tremendous radiator. Stopping heat loss
from the head, groin and armpits is a *big* win in the fight against
hypothermia. Also, if you can get your body of the water, you up your survival
time a lot.

>
> All of this can fit into small bag on your waist.
>
> At remote locations always leave a note on the dash describing your
> destination, time of departure and expected return, day, sail color and phone
> number.

I would go further - tell a friend to phone the CG by a certain time.
Give explicit details where you are going to be. Be there! Phone your
friend and notify all is ok on time!

>
> For the ultimate in safety...Apelco just came out with a tiny hand held VHF
> transceiver that is guaranteed to be water proof (not just water resistent).
> It has all VHF channels and also get the NOAA weather reports. All for a
> price of $249. Expensive but....

Yup. If you can beat the salt water intrusion problems, it's a good bet.
However, keep in mind that vhf is line-of-sight and has a range similar
to that of vision (actually slightly more). At water level you are going to
have to have a receiver at a pretty close radius - easy at SF bay, much
harder at Pt Reyes. Of course, all signally devices in the above list,
with the excpetion of the whistle will not work in fog. Then again,
if you are in range of GC vhf antennae located on high mountains,
then your chances of being received are good. It might pay to know
where these antennae are located.

>
> Forget flares even the "O" ringed ones fail with time. I have used flares in
> emergencies. They last only seconds and are useless if you are in a trough or
> your potential rescuer is looking away. A mirror, whistle and strobe can be
> use repeatedly and are unlikely to fail.

This needs some qualification. Smoke flares put out an enormous plume
that lasts in
the order of a minute depending on wind, spray etc.
If you have a sighting on another vsl or person
on land, these are effective. Also, pen flare launchers can be useful in
populated areas. There are waterproof versions of these. If you suspect
people on land or nearby boats, these are good at night. There are floating
versions available commercially.



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